February Goes Fast

As I write this entry on a day that hasn't appeared in our calendar for the last four years, I couldn't help but to turn to Justin and say, "Damn, February was fast!" And it truly did. We've done a crazy amount of traveling over the last few weeks, and our pocketbooks show it. With each place, however, we've been able to gain yet another unforgettable memory, and I still find myself having the time of my life.

After returning from Antigua, Justin and I spent two weeks at the monastery… the only full two weeks in all of February that we'd be there. During those two weeks, however, we accomplished huge steps with computer donation project. After several trips to and from the sites (which is about 45 minutes away), we have over 25 computers set up and delivered in two different schools. We have about 10 more to clean up and install, and then (save the "instruction on usage" part) we are complete. The delivery and physical installation project took longer than you'd expect, but we had help. Not only did Giovanni come to help with programming, but Casey and Connor (lead volunteer coordinators from HELPS) assisted us with our project. After the January HELPS mission, Casey and Connor decided to visit Semuc Champey (tourist hotspot near Cobán) and then preside in the monastery with us for a few days.

(ASIDE: Anyone that makes it to Cobán, you've got a free place to stay and eat! Gotta love Benedictine hospitality).

Setting up our Computer Army

Casey, Justin, Connor, Me

They got to see the "inside edition" of what living in a monastery is like. We even had a classic American Super Bowl Party in the Gringo Room! While visiting with Connor and Casey, we determined that we would try to help translate for one HELPS mission per month if our schedule could swing it. This included us giving the green light to the then upcoming February HELPS mission in Tecpán! Our experience with the last HELPS mission was so in-depth, effective and priceless, that we are doing our best to make HELPS a major part of our service work here. 

Alan shows Bernie his "new work shifts" on the schedule

Connor and Casey left to prepare the next medical mission in Tecpán on Wednesday, February 8. We had further work to complete during the following Thursday and Friday, so we planned to meet them at Hotel Barceló at 8:00a.m. in Guatemala City on Sunday February 12. In the meantime, we completed more computer work with Giovanni and Fr. Bernie, and prepped for another week of intense medical mission work. We also got a cool tour of Alan's Cardimom farm (Alan Kress, friend of Father Bernie, has a farm very near the schools receiving our donated computers).  Prior to leaving, we met up with our friends Guiseppe and Sasha for dinner at a Cuban Cuisine restaurant. It was great catching up with them prior to heading out for another big adventure.

Lots o' Cardimom

HELPS Trip #1 - San Cristobal

Orphanage Outreach, Day 1

HELPS International Trip #1 - San Cristobal

The hour long drive from Coban to neighboring city San Cristobal seemed to take forever. While Justin and I rode in bed of Bernie's pick-up truck, I was plagued by a massive headache and longing for a place to lay down. As we arrived at the hospital, the scene outside was enough to make me forget my head-pains. For at least a half-a-mile leading up the hill to the hospital, a long lane snaked down an old, washed out road. It was apparent that many of the Guatemalan queuers had camped, maybe for days, seeking the first-class medical attention that HELPS has to offer.

As our truck rolled up, the members of the line turned and began to applause our arrival. Justin and I were humbled beyond belief; it was a significant foreshadowing of what we were about to experience during the week.

Meeting The Team

The hospital was kept in a "base camp" about the size of a football field. Surrounding it was a tall fence adorned with barbed wire. The actual hospital would be considered derelict in the United States, but for Guatemalan standards (and for what we wanted to accomplish with it) it worked. Many rooms were missing door handles, ceiling tiles, and functioning lights. Our living space, which was smaller than a St. Thomas Hall dorm room, had lights that didn't turn off and was missing a significant amount of ceiling tiles (steam room at night, refrigerator in the morning). As we explored the hospital and tried to find people who could use our help moving things, translating, or setting things up, Justin and I played the role of unexpected guests (recall that Erin, our contact, was not in attendance). 

"Hi! I'm Thomas Joyce." …  "Yep, I'm from Minnesota, too! I'm volunteering here for a year through a program called the Saint John's Benedictine Volunteer Corps." … "We're staying in Coban; in a monastery called Resurrection Priory, actually." … "No, I don't think I want to be a monk, but it's been a very enlightening experience! I'm just a volunteer."

Dr. Joe taking a break

After introducing myself as such to a nice lady named Ruth, she got excited, "YOU are from Saint John's?! Oh, just wait till Dr. Joe hears this." Immediately, Ruth took me to the dentist's area, where she introduced me to Dr. Joe Wenner (SJU Class of '68). "You're from Saint John's? Come on over here!" Joe put his arm around me and told me that I'd be working with him for the week.. 

"This guy is working with us! He's a Johnnie so he'll definitely work hard!" Here I am, thousands of miles away from Collegeville in the midst of the Guatemalan mountains, and yet I cannot escape that wonderful thing that is Johnnie Pride. Dr. Joe introduced me to his whole team, with whom I spent the whole week with. Joe's mentor, fellow hunter and Stearns County member Dr. Bob of Albany, MN (just north of Collegeville), mild-mannered Dr. Wilcox, and Dental Assistants Stacy and Ruth composed the rest of the crew. After meeting everybody in Dental, I was thrilled to have been established with a fun, high energy group. I knew it'd be a great week!

Room and Board

As mentioned previously, or room as quite an interesting predicament: no windows, ceiling tiles gone, lights don't go off. Instead of keeping the lights on 24/7, we choose to pull the LCD lights out from their sockets (now instead of external Wal-Mart light, we had "crack" room darkness.). Still, our room was a lucky break for two reasons: 1) we got a room to ourselves. 2) we were the safest room in the hospital. Just outside our room stayed a whole platoon of Guatemalan soldiers hired to protect the hospital campus. While we weren't worried about a riot/rebellion, I suppose it is comfortable sleeping knowing that 15 AK-47's stand between you and the rest of the world. 

Another perk of the HELPS trips for us specifically is the food. While I'm not completely disappointed with what the monastery has to offer to eat (I had a fantastic lunch of burger and greasy enchiladas today, in fact), we do love having that flashback to the classic American diet. On this trip, we enjoyed a constant flow of hot dish/casserole, tomato soup / grilled cheese, spaghetti, Special K bars, Oreo Cookie Dessert, etc. Meals are an incredible event for us every day at those medical missions. There's nothing like going to bed early with a satisfied stomach.

Dr. Thomas the DENTIST

Monday through Friday, I stuck close with the dental team, learning a lot from Dr. Joe and Company. Our first two days were "outreach missions" to a local orphanage in San Cristobal. On the first day, Justin and I worked as the Dental frontline: we brushed the kids' teeth, applied fluoride, and assessed which teeth needed to be filled or (more likely) extracted ("Extracted…NOT pulled!" -Dr. Joe). From our station, the kids would wait in a long line to see the dental crew for extractions. Word spread throughout San Cristobal, and soon enough we had adults lined up for examination, too. In all, we saw around 40 some patients the first day. Occasionally, Dr. Joe would come up to us and say the following,

"Isn't this great?! We're really doin' it. But they keep on comin'. Back to work! YOU tell Brother Paul... he NEEDS to get down here. We're doin' REAL work down here! You tell him!!!"

There you go Brother Paul. You're being called out by a Johnnie dentist. Remember... I'm just the messenger.

Justin examines some small molars

Us with Mother Mary of the Orphanage

First Brush

Taking a break

On the second day, Justin stayed at "triage" (gathering information about and admitting patients),  at the hospital. The crew was a bit smaller this day- Stacy, Dr. Joe, and a pretty translator named Paola from Guatemala City. I was left as the only guy on the frontline. After cleaning teeth, examining, and diagnosing extractions for over forty people, our queue was full. Starting at around 11:30a.m. that day, I began my hardest job I've ever had to perform with HELPS: turning people away. Because word spreads fast, many city-goers would come to the orphanage hoping for a free tooth extractions. I had to explain in Spanish countless times that the outreach clinic was full, and that they might try the line at the hospital (fully knowing that was probably full, too). I stood fast for three hours as dozens of hopeful faces slowly slumped away in defeat. I hope to never have to experience that again.

Nearer the end of the day, I observed a few extractions and fillings, and even helped translate between patient and dentist. On one particular occasion, a little 3 year old girl came into the operating room. As soon as Stacey boosted him up to the seat, she began sobbing uncontrollably. Dr. Joe took one look at her and realized he couldn't extract anything now… she'd have to "go under" on Saturday (with this HELPS team, each doctor/dentist is allocated 6 surgery times, this little girl was lucky enough to get one of Dr. Joe's slots). While Paola was explaining to the little girl's mother that they would need to get to the hospital for the little girl's operation on Saturday, the little girl continued to sob loudly. I couldn't stand it! I picked her up and her arms grasped tightly around my neck. Pretty normal human reaction, I'd say, but she still made my heart melt. 

At the hot seat

Stacy comforts a tired patient

Dr. Bob and Ruth hard at work

Wednesday was a lot more fun and less-stressful. I stayed with the Dental Team at the hospital all day. I'm not sure of exact numbers, but we must have seen at least 75 some patients. I worked as the primary translator for the two dentists, which pretty much made me the official "hand-holder" for little kids (another very heartwarming experience). I was amazed at how tough some of these kids were.. and the mothers were even tougher! I saw a Guatemalan soldier wince in response to getting a quick extraction, whereas I saw a Qui'chi' mother's gums get dug into by medical tweezers and not see so much as a flinch. 

While most patients were tough, I did need to help hold down a few as well. Needless to say, we were absolutely exhausted at the end of the day. 

"We're Done!!" -Stacy and Dr. Joe

Dr. Schwegler helps a family out

Justin helps at Triage in Tactic

Thursday and Friday consisted of assistance at another outreach location: a church near Tactic (about 30 minutes from our hometown Coban). The dentists set up their stations in a very new, clean parish gathering building and saw around 150 patients in two days. On Friday, a team of doctors also assessed, assisted patients and distributed medication. Justin assisted the doctors with Triage in another building close-by, while I remained with the dentist's team, doing a mix of everything I had done in the first two days (applying fluoride, translating, "Toothbrush Use 101", etc). As before, work became stressful at times with pushing patients and limited "instruments" (NOT "tools" -Dr. Joe). Still, everyone kept a great attitude and persevered.

Dr. Bob and "Legendary" Jon Cain prep for another extraction

A Good Day's Work

On Friday night, the whole crew enjoyed a delicious banquet held in the hospital hallway. I exchanged contact with several new great friends like Casey and Connor (HELPS post-undergrad volunteers staying the next few months… our friends and contacts for future trips!), Lance from Texas (great music taste), Ana, Paola, "Sweetheart" Luisa (translators from Guatemala City), Peter, The Cain Family, The McMillan Family, the whole Dental team from MN, and many others. At the end of the night, a few marimba players came to the hospital, and a big dance floor manifested itself. I did my best to attempt the salsa dance without liquid confidence (I may or may have not looked very, very foolish). A fun night regardless, and a great way to end such a rewarding week.

Paola tries to teach me salsa

Lance and Margarita tear a rug

On Saturday, January 28, Justin and I left the hospital, reassuring the team that we would meet up with them in Antigua for the celebration banquet. We wished to make a return trip to Coban, however short, to freshen up, settle down, and relax.

Sunday, January 29, my birthday, was wonderful. I woke at noon, and did very little except for play and listen to music. Justin brought me brunch in bed- a delicious grilled cheese and potato chips. In the evening, we headed out to Casa de Acuna for a delicious pizza meal. Our friend, Guiseppe, served us all the best; he brought out a special drink for me to try (his own invention, called "Piensamiento" or "A Thought"), and even did the embarrassing "Ya Quieremos Pastel" Guatemalan Birthday song. I couldn't have thought of a better way to spend my birthday.. I thoroughly enjoyed myself.

Cullen and Luisa hit the dancefloor 

Joe preps his big bag o' coffee for back home

On Monday and Tuesday, Justin and I traveled to Antigua to spend time with the San Cristobal HELPS group one last time. On Tuesday afternoon, we took a bus to the top of one of Antigua's surrounding mountains. There, I enjoyed a fine lunch (paid for by Dr. Joe) and a fantastic view of Antigua's valley. In the evening, we attended the HELPS Banquet. In all, I believe an estimated 1,800 people were medically assisted in some way by this HELPS crew, and over 60 stoves were installed in the local communities (more on STOVES in the next HELPS International blog entry). I was even surprised by the presence of Kelly Bechtold, friend and CSB student studying abroad in Guatemala, whose uncle Dr. Boyle was involved in the HELPS mission. Afterwards, a few of us went out for some quick drinks, dancing and good times at MONO LOCO, a local Antigua hotspot. All-in-all, in the few days of Antigua and week in  with this medical team were wonderful moments that have been permanently imprinted in my memory of Guatemala.

The Team

Happy to Be Back

I returned back to Guatemala on January 9, 2012. As I jumped in a cab for the bus station and began speaking two-week rusted Spanish, it felt incredibly refreshing to be back. It was a nice balmy 70 degrees in Guatemala City, and I wondered to myself why I was wearing jeans.

I made it the "Monja Blanca" station just as the 6:00p.m. was departing (the airplane wheels had detached from the cold Minnesota terrain at 6:08a.m. that same morning). I settled into a spot next to an open window. As we continued up the winding paved stairway to Coban and I felt the cold mountain air sting my face, I recalled why I had worn long pants. After passing 20 some cars and trucks and driving over the speed limit around turns in the night fog, I couldn't believe I was still alive as I dismounted the wild, reckless night Mistress that they call "Monja Blanca."

My return was welcomed as well as I expected.. Raul and Bernie stayed up to greet me and share a drink after a long, swift return. I got the pleasure of offering Raul a Christmas gift... a top-of-the-line fishing net! 

ASIDE: Prior to leaving for Minnesota, Raul took Justin and I on a beautiful fishing trip. During this trip, Raul hooked a fantastic sized Bass-looking fish. Raul's friend tried to untangle Raul's short-handled net from a few fishing poles. Just as he dipped the first part of the net in the water, the fish hooked loose and swam away. Raul's reaction? "I'll catch him again!" Fantastic.

Here are some flicks of our excursion:

My best catch of the day

Raul's Assistant, Justin, Me

Since finishing our documentary project, Justin and I have spent much of our daily work focused on publishing a website for the monastery. We've seen hours of Joomla Instructional videos and read enough manuals to make your held explode. While we don't have the site up yet (we're gathering more "Resurrection Priory" content to publish as I write this), I believe that Justin and I have a basic understanding of how Joomla web design and publishing works. While I realize this website is far from being complete, I am enthusiastic about understanding the ins and outs of web designing, and have great motivation to explore our creativity with it and get it done.

My following two weeks after my return consisted of more website work, along with several other projects. A few clothing donation deliveries here, a few more tweaks with the donated computers there (our new Linux software, Lubuntu ("L" for light) runs much faster on the Dell 98's). During this work, two words hung over our heads: "HELPS International." 

In late 2011, I got in contact with an "Erin" from HELPS Intl., a group that organizes medical outreach teams from the States. We heard from Erin about a week after I returned. She confirmed our participation with the next medical team group: we would be going to San Cristobal, about an hour outside of Coban. The mission would begin on Sunday, January 21. Until that time, all Justin and I could think about was how excited we were to get involved.

The weekend prior to leaving for the medical mission, we met up with two girls from the Peace Corps. We had met Hannah previously at a restaurant, and planned a trip with her friend Sasha out to Alta Verapaz'es most popular tourist attractions: The Quetzal Biotope, Chicoy Cave, and Chixim Church.

The Biotope was a nice walk through the woods and gave a nice view of the Alta Verapaz rural, mountainous landscape, but aside from that it wasn't anything extravagant. Many travel there to see the famed, endangered Quetzal, the national bird, but we had no such luck..

Chicoy Cave was much more impressive. We took a mile-long rickety road out to a very steep hike into the mountain range that runs along the Coban-Guatemala Road (also incidentally along a huge fault line in Central America). Chicoy Cave had no visitor's center, no guards, benches, walkways or caution signs (as we made our way up the hill, a 14-year old boy ran out of a shack and asked for 10 Quetzal… no one complained). The Cave didn't even have lights- it didn't have to. Chicoy Cave is actually a cavern; a big hole in the ground. Almost every inch of the interior touches sunlight at one point during the day.

The descent in the cave was exhilarating; the cave went deep into the ground under thousands of tons of earth. When we crawled out, we all marveled about the peril we would be in if an earthquake had hit at that instant (little did we know, at that same time an earthquake tremor had shook Guatemala City!). 

Chixim Church in Tactic provided for another fantastic view of the valley, but the church was… well… as expected (recall that you're talking to two guys who've spent six months in a monastery). After climbing stairs, spelunking, and hiking the forests of Guatemala. We were exhausted. We made it back to Coban for a late lunch.

The rest of the day was spent meeting up with the Peace Corps members. At first, I was curious about how the Peace Corps worked in Central America and the kind of tasks they undertook, but by the end of the night when we hit a local bar called Antik's, I had heard enough. Most of the conversation discussed Peace Corps finicky rules on leaving for trips around the local country, and the recent disappoint of the organization pulling some of the members early. As a volunteer that has access to a car and has fairly liberal access to travel, I didn't feel so inclined to brandish my blessings. While I wasn't able to get to know many of the other Peace Corps members very well, I got to know Guiseppe, a friend of one of the members. Guiseppe moved from Italy to Guatemala. He is staying in Coban where he works as a server/host for the best restaurant in town. Guiseppe, who speaks fairly fluent English, enjoyed reminiscing about Europe with Justin and I while a few other Peace Corps members ranted.

8:00a.m. came early the next day. Justin and I packed quickly and were off to San Christobal for a live-changing experience with an unforgettable group of doctors, dentists, and friends.

There and Back Again… My Brief Return to the Frozen Tundra

9:58p.m… Christmas Eve night. The Minneapolis airport is comfortably silent. Workers and overnight, family-deprived travelers stare blankly at CNN's footage of Rockerfeller Square. I find myself itching with excitement as I whisk by them. When I find myself in a corridor unaccompanied by other Samsonite-toters, I break into long, eager strides. 

10:03p.m… Baggage Claim 3 is silent and empty like the barren Minnesotan landscape outside. Just as I begin to feel impatient, sirens ring, and a big conveyor belt turns slowly. I have little time to day dream about riding the conveyor belt around the terminal (the airport is empty) before seeing the first bag spit out onto the black, rotating magic carpet… mine. 

10:08p.m… Green Parking Lot A is relatively empty, and it is not hard to find where my parents planted the getaway car. I retrieve the magnetized box from the bottom the the SUV's axel, and struggle with anticipation to open it. As I enter the familiar family vehicle, I carelessly toss aside the expected freshly back chocolate cookies. No time for treats.. I've got a family to surprise.

10:19p.m… Highway 5 is my racetrack. I flirt with exceeding the speed limit while I marvel over my remarkable efficiency of travel. While no snow falls outside, the joyous feeling of the occasion seemed almost visible. 

10:33p.m… The Joyce Household doorbell rings. As I squat underneath a gift-wrapped 4 foot tall box, I thanked God that I was given the privilege of spending this Christmas with my family.

---

As some of you may or may not know, I was privileged with the chance to return home and surprise several family members and friends. While I had not originally planned on returning to Minnesota at all, I am very glad I made the trip. It gave me a chance to catch up with everyone, especially a specific family member and family friend who have recently encountered grave illness. Please keep Grandpa and Jean in your prayers!

Since the planning of the trip in early November, the only people (with few exceptions) who knew I was coming back were my parents. It was agreed that I would surprise EVERYONE… even my sisters. So, as you can imagine, when Elise and Regina lifted up the big box on the doorstep on Christmas Eve, they were shocked. 

My visit back to Minnesota was all I could've hoped for. I surprised many of my aunts, uncles, cousins, and saw many priceless shocked looks from my friends (after careful recollection, Megan Harr, Nora Berens, and Ryan Miller are the winning reactions). During New Year's Eve, I was able to surprise and hang out with many of my friends at my favorite Minnesota getaway in the world… The LoonInn. My friends Kylie and David even reversed surprised me… it was wonderful. Many thanks to Tom Loonan and family, especially to Bob Loonan for letting us the use of his wonderful "ManCave Mansion."

While I won't leave you with tales from MN as they may be familiar to you, I'll leave you with a few pictures from the Loon Inn. 

LoonInn, Early Morning

Many arrived on New Year's Eve

No T.V., Internet, Just manly things like fireplaces and beer

Proud American

I apologize if I wasn't able to visit with you while I was back. I made a specific priority to spend plenty of time with family. If I missed you and I shouldn't have… please send me a message! No matter how small I promise to send something back..

Anyway, I wanted to update all of you what I did for that time. I'm currently back in Guatemala, and I've only just had time to write down the next episode of my tales. More blogs to come very soon!

On to the Next One

Resurrection Priory: Fulfillment of Life & Spirit

The above video (click on link) is a finished product of countless hours of editing, recording, and translating during the dates of November 25 - December 5th. While most of the filming had been completed prior to our vacation, we had hardly cut any scenes and/or translated interviews, much less construct a cohesive plot to the movie. Most of these days were spent working for the full 14 hours, only breaking for meals. Why the rush? Our goal was complete by December 3rd, when Saint Patrick's Church (sister parish of Resurrection Priory) was having a dinner with our visiting Superior Padre Pedro. Unfortunately, we ran into trouble with some subtitle problems, and were delayed a bit. We finished the movie by the 5th, and (with a few uploading problems and copyright issues to resolve) we got the video live on the 8th. I hope you can take some time to enjoy it...

"Behind the Scenes" for Resurrection Priory: Fulfillment of Life & Spirit
Justin and I split the work according to our strengths and resources. While Justin worked tirelessly on historical context, translations, and cutting interviews, I spent time developing a plot, cutting transitional scenery, and writing the script. We worked together on the thematic element of the documentary, and it its truly amazing how easy it was to put the final product together. Lots of interviews matched themes from other interviews. They tied in well to the historical context and "feel" of Guatemala, and we are very proud of what we were able to accomplish. The video was shot mostly by my new D3100 Nikon SLR camera, yet a few scenes (more than you might realize), were actually taken with an iPod video clip recorder when the SLR's battery died. Many of the photos in the beginning of the movie were taken from the monastery's photo lab (the same one from which I rescued old photos from water leakage earlier this fall).
Questions during interviews were created and posed by Justin, while I filmed. Questions included, "What was your calling to the monastic life? What makes the Benedictine life different? What is your calling (responsibilities) in this monastery?, etc." I was impressed with the answers that were given. The  whole experience was very enlightening in learning the ways of the monastery and its supportive efforts towards a very needy community. I enjoyed myself thoroughly, and I can see filmmaking as a developing, ripe interest.

December 8 - December 12
Since its release into the cyber-world, the documentary has ranked up a couple hundred views (probably a dozen from myself, checking for any mistakes and, of course, raising the view count). The birth of Resurrection Priory's presence has sparked an interest in further online exposure. Next step / project? Making a website. I've found that this is easier said than done. Plenty of information has to be complied. Once more, Justin and I have to sit down, talk about themes, what we want it to look like, what we want to emphasize, and draft a few ideas. Obviously we will show history, photo gallery,  current events, etc. I've never actually constructed a website before. I have confidence in myself to learn, but I am intimidated by one outlying factor: everything's gotta be in Spanish! We'd like to have a running product up by the end of the month, but it's most important to get a basic foundation of ideas first. I'll keep you all updated.

Lately, its been the same-old work routine, enter website publishing work. On Saturday, the Spanish Classic was on (Barcelona vs. Madrid). We all watched the game in the Gringo room, ate snacks and drank pop. Today, we met up with some girls from the university to play basketball down at San Marcos Park. We formed 6-on-6 teams against a few young guys playing there. Justin and I ran nonchalantly up and down the court while these young Guatemalan guys tried to show off their ball skills. Only problem? They didn't have any. In fact, it was a surprise to see these Guatemalans not double dribbling.  Basketball is the next most popular sport to soccer here, but they must lack coaches. In general, Guatemalans stink at basketball.

Not so bad for us! First time I've seemed like the hotshot on a basketball court in... well, forever. It was a fun time, and the girls (who we met teaching English at the university) were fun to hang out with. They want to take us on one of the tourist stops next weekend (Semuc Champey, possibly!), so we've got some nice local guides to show us around now. All is well... December is passing quickly.

Last week, Veronica (Texas girl on the Nitewinds Snorkeling Tour) sent us her pictures from the trip. We didn't have a camera, so we were very thankful for these. Take a look at the fine places we got to visit:

Silk Caye 

Bubbles, Veronica, Gas

Image from Hatchet Caye

Paradise is in Placentia

I apologize for the delayed completion of my last entry. This past week has been the craziest week of work I've experienced so far, but it has yielded terrific results. More on that later...

November 20
Ahhh... where was I? Oh, yes. So there we were, stuck on the middle of paradise with nothing but the packs on our backs. Raul and Donal took off around 9:00a.m. Our journey quickly turned from a rushed calamity to calm idleness. Justin left for a run as I swapped all our gear from our sea cabin that was just inside the treeline to the "Parrot Fish" sea cabin right next to the ocean. It cost us an extra $20 overall, but it was so incredibly worth it. The view was unbelievable... check out photos below..

The rest of the day was chock-full of absolute nothing. Picked up a pizza from a burnt-out 50 year-old gringo surfer dude, stopped by the grochery store for some food and refreshments, and relaxed in the hammock with the occasional dive into the ocean. Placentia is the perfect place to escape. No worries in the world: only you, the sand, and the ocean..

Well, that is, until the sixth set of beach venders stops by your cabin and asks if you want to buy anything.   As long as you are bold enough to tell these beachers to carry on, you won't be bothered by anything else aside from the beach bum dogs that like to post up by your cabin's deck. Here's a picture of one frequent visitor...

Justin and I got some dinner that night at Omar's Crab Club. While we looked around, we noticed one thing particularly interesting about Placentia: if you end up staying there for a few days, you begin to recognize EVERYONE. We later found out that the village of Placentia holds about 800 people, most of whom work within the tourist business. We saw our waitress buying grocheries AND taking her kids for a walk (two separate occasions), we saw the hotel receptionist eating at the same place as us, and we even saw the same woman who had sold us our places on a snorkeling tour for the next day.h Tourists were similarly easy to recognize. Placentia is a peninsula into the Caribbean... with one main road out to the point. Aside from that, it's filled with square sand-lots and stilted beach house. Everything is worn by the sea air, yet the town still holds a very warm feel. Anyway.. all you have to know as a reader is that I found this place to be absolute paradise.

November 21
We began our day at 8:30a.m. because we were due for a 9:00a.m. launch for a snorkeling excursion we had paid for the day before. As we began to walk towards the boat launch, clouds rushed over-head. Soon, we were drenched by tropical rain.

Rainfall was constant for at least a half-hour; a true raincheck was in order. Since we couldn't head to the Cayes for snorkeling today (they let us delay the trip for a day), we took a walk around town and explored the shops (typical chintzy tourist stuff... go figure!). After a coffee shop stop (house in the trees!) and the purchasing of a couple Hawaiian shirts, the sun was shining again, and we headed back to the beach. Repeat actions from previous day.

November 22
We woke to happily find a sunny day on the horizon. We met up with the "Nite Winds" tour guides, Gas and Bubbles. Each had the "Caye Life" style- suave with shorts and shades. Rastafari. We packed up our luggage (snorkels, raw chicken floating in water in a white mason bucket, potato salad, island punch), met our tour companion (Victoria, a young, independent lady from Houston), and we were off. It took us about 1.5 hours to get to.... our destination?

Silk Caye, a collection of islands about the size of 10 small college dorm rooms. The island was scattered with 12 palm trees, a few picnic tables, a crude grill on one end and an outhouse on the other.   Surrounding these islands were beautiful coral reefs. It was prestine. Perfect. And of course... no pictures for this either. Sorry! we were afraid of ruining our good cameras. Still, no cameras did NOT ruin an incredible experience.

After exploring the coral reef (which wasn't as good as Hawaii) We ate a very tasty fried chicken (the marinade was incredible), had some delicious punch and potato salad. After lunch, off to swim with the sharks, rays, and turtles! Even though I knew there was nothing to be nervous about, I was nervous when I first jumped in the water.  I've never swam with sharks before! They were, of course, harmless. I saw plenty of huge sting rays, some shark, barracuda, but my favorite of all was the turtle. All the turtles swam very peacefully, and were always followed closely by fish that were using the turtle as protection. Occasionally the turtles would mosey on up to the surface for a gasp of air. After getting just a tiny breath, they'd float right back down the ocean floor, almost as nonchalant as they had left.
Our journey back to mainland was graced by a stop at the "Hatchet Caye" Resort
http://hatchetcaye.com/

Okay... wait. Go back. You really do need to click on that link. This place is incredible. It's a resort on a private island. I don't know who invested in this (recall Hurricane Irene absolutely trashed Placentia a few years ago), but for now, it seems like one of the best kept secrets in the Caribbean. We were offered free beer by the bartender. One of our tour guides, Bubbles, told me that the owner of the island permitted all tour guides in the area to stop by for a beer on the way back. It makes sense: 1) Keep the locals happy. 2) Advertising. I thought about this for awhile as I sipped on a delicious crisp Belkin (the ONLY Belize beer, better than Gallo in my opinion) and watched the sun go down as a let my feet sink into the sand..

We returned to mainland in time for another dinner (Wendy's Restaurant, Placentia. Order the Garlic Cheesy Shrimp-awesome). On our way back to the cabin, we ran into Victoria, who was heading to the bar. She was traveling alone, and I felt like I'd be a twit if I didn't offer her a drink from us. She gladly accepted. We went to the Barefoot Bar, where Victoria called the drinks... "Bailey's on ice please." I watched Justin's expression as his eyes rolled into the back of his head (it was previously determined Justin's card had the next tab).  We chatted with Victoria for a bit until Bubbles, our tour guide, found us and began to be flirtatious with Victoria. A couple of head nods, handshakes, and "good night"'s later, we were relieved of the awkward situation. An expensive $30 bill went towards a story at least.

On our way home, we stopped by the Tipsy Tuna for a game of pool. The interesting thing about this game of pool, though, is it's played in... sand. In fact, the whole bar floor was sand. Locals say that you can walk all of Placentia without shoes. Most of the bars are barefoot (not to mention THE Barefoot Bar), and there is never a hint of trash on the beach (which is constantly combed), much less anywhere else. The locals find it in their best business interest to keep the place immaculate. Even though Placentia is run-down, its surprisingly clean.

November 23

As fast as the vacation -erm- visa trip came, it went. As we packed up, I knew that I would be back to Belize many more times in my life. While traveling can sometimes be trying, our way back to Guatemala was painless. We took two water taxis, and a bus to reach Puerto Barrios. We stayed in a cheap hotel in Puerto Barrios and caught the El Rancho Bus the next morning. Our only true obstacle was the microbus between El Rancho and Coban.

(Aside)
microbus  n. - in Guatemala, illegally oversized vans used to cart people like cattle between cities. A microbus has 5 passenger benches, and will usually operate containing 10 people over the legal capacity.

About 45 minutes into a 2 hour ride, a young woman's daughter was extremely sick, and vomited in the middle of the van. Damn. Lucky I choose a window seat. I spent the whole trip trying to keep warm while I gasped for the icey-cold mountain air. Justin, who was directly behind the whole fiasco, was not so lucky.

Justin's luck continued to sink. When we had finally returned to the monastery, he realized that he left his North Face jacket and passport on the microbus. We spent an hour driving around and talking to microbus drivers. For some reason, I knew the whole time that we'd eventually get it back.
"These kind of big-time loses usually end up better than you think," I told Justin. I was right, thank goodness.

November 24
The next day, while Justin was out for a run, his phone got a call from the driver. He said that he would be in Coban in less than 5 minutes with the jacket. I knew I had to make the rendevous. As I ran down to retrieve the brown Suzuki (the only car I've ever driven here), my heart sank as I realized it was gone.
"Puedo llevar un carro?"
Only one left... the giant white Jeep / monster truck. I swear the wheels run parallel with my waist. While a bit intimidated at first, I quickly realized that I was king of the road, and drove so. I reached the Coban taxi station just in time. As the man gave me the jacket, he asked for 100 Quetzal. At first I refused... what the hell? (Little had I known that Justin told him over the phone earlier that he'd pay him) I thought twice, and decided it was actually a fantastic trade ($12 for a $125 North Face and invaluable passport), and pulled out the only bill I had in my wallet, a 100 Quetzal, and gave it to the happy driver. Knew it'd turn up.